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This publication presents 30 selected papers developed from an initial 47 presentations made at the Shapeshifting Conference held in Auckland in April 2014. The conference explored transformative paradigms in fashion and textile design through four thematic frameworks including Ambiguous & Automated Forms; Surface & Structural Transformations; The Fashion System & The Ephemeral; and Transformational Strategies. Shapeshifting, as a process of change and responsive agency is considered in these papers as a concern with cultures of transformation, navigations of the social and technological and the transversal hacker who unpicks and revises in order to contest what is current and deliver our future.

Editors: Frances Joseph, Mandy Smith, Miranda Smitheram and Jan Hamon

All 30 papers selected for publication were double blind peer reviewed by an international panel of fashion and textile experts and academic reviewers.

The publication has been produced by the Textile and Design Laboratory and Colab at the Auckland University of Technology, February 2015.

ISBN: 978-1-927184-27-1

http://www.shapeshifting.aut.ac.nz/conference-proceedings/

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  • Re-shaping the process of design & making: shifting the relationship between designer and client in the context of digital knitwear design and production systems 

    Farren, Anne; Yang, Sooyung (Textile and Design Lab and Colab at Auckland University of Technology, 2014)
    New technologies have created a gap in designer knowledge and understanding of the design capabilities and production potential of new CAD software driven equipment. Significantly, within some sectors of the fashion industry, ...
  • Writing on the transformative and imaginary body 

    Ha, Winnie (Textile and Design Lab and Colab at Auckland University of Technology, 2014)
    "Unable to sense any articulation in your palms and fingers, you realise your arms are now stumps, rounded off where the elbows would have been. All you can feel is clammy, thin film, like loosely stretched latex. You are ...
  • Smart textiles as raw materials for design 

    Dumitrescu, Delia; Nilsson, Linnéa; Persson, Anna; Worbin, Linda (Textile and Design Lab and Colab at Auckland University of Technology, 2014)
    Materials fabricate the designed artefact, but they can also play an important role in the design process; as a medium or method used to develop the design. Textiles can, with their soft and flexible properties, be easily ...
  • In high heels on shifting ground: fashioning lives in the aftermath of the Christchurch earthquake 

    Cie, Christina (Textile and Design Lab and Colab at Auckland University of Technology, 2014)
    Clothing serves as a marker of identity, but how do you dress when you have nothing left but the clothes that you were wearing when you had to run? Who are you, when dressed entirely in someone else’s choice of clothes? ...
  • Imaginative voyaging: fashion practice as a ‘site’ for wonder and enchantment 

    Chant, Armando (Textile and Design Lab and Colab at Auckland University of Technology, 2014)
    The aim of this paper is to explore the state of wonder within a transitional and transformative context and its potential to inform experimental fashion practices. In particular it will focus on the emotionally generative ...
  • Volumetric shape making and pattern cutting 

    Campbell, Lesley (Textile and Design Lab and Colab at Auckland University of Technology, 2014)
    This paper, in light of pedagogical observations, seeks to explore and examine an alternative approach to pattern cutting through volumetric shape making and a practical, process led investigation using Alien body shapes ...
  • Past, present and future: transformational approaches to utilizing archives for research, learning and teaching 

    Britt, Helena; Stephen-Cran, Jimmy; Shaw, Alan (Textile and Design Lab and Colab at Auckland University of Technology, 2014)
    This article focuses on transformational approaches to utilizing archives in the creation of textile and textile-related products. The existing context in terms of historical resource and archive use by the textile industry ...
  • S.A.R.A.: synesthetic augmented reality application 

    Benitez, Margarita; Vogl, Markus (Textile and Design Lab and Colab at Auckland University of Technology, 2014)
    S.A.R.A. (synesthetic augmented reality application) is an App exploring the potential of using a mobile device as a unique and wearable musical interface. S.A.R.A. was originally developed as a standalone App to translate ...
  • The Wardrobe Hack and Uncatwalk digital platforms of action and services for positive engagement with clothing 

    Whitty, Jennifer (Textile and Design Lab and Colab at Auckland University of Technology, 2014)
    "The choices we make about what we wear are influenced by life present, lives past and our ideas about our future selves. Expressions of values ... build a rationale for dress that transcend narrow commercial views about ...
  • Wear, repair and remake: the evolution of fashion practice by design 

    Cramer, Jo (Textile and Design Lab and Colab at Auckland University of Technology, 2014)
    Through my postgraduate, fashion practice-based research project, The Living Wardrobe, I have become increasingly interested in garment design that specifically facilitates future alteration and modification. There is ...
  • Flirting with uncertainty: mutability, metamorphosis, and fashionability in the Greco-Roman imagination 

    McFerrin, Neville (Textile and Design Lab and Colab at Auckland University of Technology, 2014)
    For many ancient Greek and Roman men, fashion was fear: fear of the unknown, fear of the other, but most importantly, fear of the uncontrollable. The distinctly female ability to adopt and maintain multiple identities- ...
  • Fashion beyond representation 

    Shand, Peter (Textile and Design Lab and Colab at Auckland University of Technology, 2014)
    The promise of transformation is fashion’s most significant gift. In ideal form, fashion is a site of profound elasticity. That ideal appears as both a reflection of constant becoming with its attendant stimulation and as ...
  • Enabling design and business innovation through new textile technologies 

    Joseph, Frances; Heslop, Peter (Textile and Design Lab and Colab at Auckland University of Technology, 2014)
    Textile production initiated the first industrial revolution, with James Hargreaves’ invention of the Spinning Jenny in 1766 introducing the beginning of systems of mechanized mass production. More recently, the development ...
  • Frozen waves: exploring the transformation between sound and object 

    van Melle, Gerbrand; Marks, Stefan (Textile and Design Lab and Colab at Auckland University of Technology, 2014)
    In the project Frozen Waves, audio recordings are translated into physical objects and vice versa. Time is temporarily captured in space – space is released back into time. In doing so, the potential of visual music ...
  • The beast trilogy: an evolving experiment in fashion ideation 

    Splawa-Neyman, Tania; Wilde, Danielle; Mitford Ha, Winnie; Lacey, Jordan (Textile and Design Lab and Colab at Auckland University of Technology, 2014)
    Masses of leathery membranes, wild furs and etched bones. Intangible caresses of bodily fields. Sonic skins stretching on expanded skeletal structures. Answers to the question: What does The Beast unleash? This question, ...
  • Metamorphoric fashion: a transformative practice 

    Sgro, Donna (Textile and Design Lab and Colab at Auckland University of Technology, 2014)
    Transformation is embedded in the growth of an organism, while fashion, highly responsive to changing social and physical environments, rides the current of flux like a dreamer wandering through darkness. Through my fashion ...
  • Repeatless: transforming surface pattern with generative design 

    Russell, Alex (Textile and Design Lab and Colab at Auckland University of Technology, 2014)
    Much of the initial use of digital technology within the printed textile industry has focused on the particular advantages that it has over previous fabric printing methods. Examples include simplifying workflow, producing ...
  • Tactility and experience as transformational strategy 

    Riisberg, Vibeke; Louise Bang, Anne; Locher, Laura; Breuil Moat, Alina (Textile and Design Lab and Colab at Auckland University of Technology, 2014)
    The Awareness Project investigates the following question: Can dialogue tools that challenge tactile competencies support the development of fashion and textile design in a sustainable direction? In this article, we pay ...
  • Transformational strategies: the Margiela Rabbit and the Gecko Girl 

    Bagnall, Catherine; Collier, Katie (Textile and Design Lab and Colab at Auckland University of Technology, 2014)
    Elizabeth Costello, the elderly fiction writer in J.M Coetzee’s novel of the same name, discusses the possibility of how a human being can feel what it is like to be a bat. She believes that to feel thus, one does not need ...
  • The shift from 3D body scanned data to the physical world 

    Reilly, Lyle (Textile and Design Lab and Colab at Auckland University of Technology, 2014)
    This paper highlights the technological relationship and opportunities to combine 3D body scan and 3D print technologies for consideration within the fashion sector. Three dimensional (3D) human body scanning technology ...

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